Every dye and pigment is additional chemistry in the fluid, and additional chemistry is additional opportunity for something to drop out of suspension, plate onto a surface, or shift pH. Pure removes that variable entirely. If your priority is a loop that behaves predictably under sustained load rather than one that photographs well, this is the trade you want.
Pure
Clear, low-conductive performance coolant. Ready to pour, no mixing.
The top-up rule
A couple of ounces of DI water to top up is fine. Past that, top up with Pure.
A couple of ounces
Fine. Some evaporation through soft tubing is normal.
More than that, or every month
Every ounce of water replaces an ounce of coolant. A loop topped up with water every month is slowly turning into water: thinner colour, thinner inhibitors.
Get it in the loop in five steps
- 1
Leak-test on distilled
Plain distilled, PSU jumpered, 12 to 24 hours.
- 2
SysPrep or System Reboot
SysPrep on a new build, Reboot on a loop that ran coolant. 48 hours, then flush.
- 3
PrimoPrep, then flush
72 hours to stabilise pH before the permanent fill.
- 4
Fill and bleed
Pour Pure straight in and bleed for 24 hours.
- 5
Inspect at week two
Film, strands or a colour shift this early mean the prep was short.
What it goes into, and how a fill ages
✓Use with
- Copper, brass, nickel-plated copperThe metals Pure is formulated for.
- PETG, acrylic, glass, PVC tubingFully compatible.
- A couple of ounces of DI to top upPast that, top up with Pure.
✕Never with
- Liquid Utopia or any additiveOversaturates the formulation.
- AluminumGalvanic corrosion against copper, brass and nickel.
- Fully-coated third-party fittingsThe coating can leach into the fluid over time.
Day 1
Fill and bleed24 hours with the pump running. Check every fitting twice.
Week 2
First inspectionFilm, strands or a colour shift this early mean the prep was short.
6 months
Top up, inspectTop up with Pure. Check the radiator fins for debris.
12 months
Drain and serviceFull drain, Rad Clean through the radiators, rinse, refill.
